Here you can see the airbox boot (black rubber part at the top) and the shock reservoir.
This will be important later.
After some deliberation, I decided to get the dirt model back on the road (so to speak). Some of this comes from the fact that the dirt model still has the MFG plate on the main fork tube (the 'S' model does not) and some from the fact that I can fix the dirt one quicker...and cheaper.
|
These things tear down pretty quick. | |
|
||
|
Got a few parts stacked in the corner for cleaning. | |
| This shows the foot pegs, swingarm connection, and rear-upper and -lower motor mounts. Rear-lower mount was not in use when I pulled it apart. | |
|
|
This is a pretty useless pic. | |
| That's better. Here you can see the airbox boot (black rubber part at the top) and the shock reservoir. |
|
|
|
CID and airbox opening in the top. | |
| Swingarm and rear tire/sprocket. | |
|
|
Again but showing the little inner mudflap. | |
|
||
|
Tank, rear fender, muffler. | |
| ...and a few other parts. | |
|
|
Now I find a difference. The alternator I pulled off is for the dirt model and only has every 3rd coil wrapped...definately lower voltage/amperage. I also have the street-model alternator that has all coils wrapped. Hmmm... | |
| The parts bike is slow decreasing in weight and size | |
|
|
...as is the 'bucket-o-parts' from the dead motor. | |
| Here is now NOT to work on engines. Parts get lost...or fall off the bench...or get moved trying to 'make a spot'. | |
|
|
The triangle of backbone, bridge piece, and downtube are welded together to form the oil tank. Upper-left. This will be important later. |
|
|
||
|
||
| Pulling the CID. | |
|
|
Here we are stipped after a paint touchup. | |
| A bit cleaner | |
|
|
...it won't last. | |
Well, it is pretty definate that the 'S' model motor is in the dirt model frame.
During tear down I found metal shavings in the frame oil tank. And when I drained oil I found the shavings...but only in the frame oil tank. The engine has no shavings in it and seems pretty clean. No rust or wear on anything...
Also figured out that the 'dangling' wire on the shifter side of the engine is something used on the 'S' model. Probably neutral detection.
Pulled apart both carbs to find varnish and badly fitting float needles. I guess that would be part of how the gas would keep flowing every now and then.
Oh, I may not have mentioned that during my test ride phase I shutdown the bike and gas kept flowing. The PO 'fixed' this by whacking the side of the carb with a piece of PVC pipe until it quit. Carb body is scarred from this.
If it seems like I was not impressed with this person's mechanical skills...you would be correct. The only stupid questions are those not asked, and it looked like this guy never asked anyone for help.